Northern Ireland travel guide When to go, what to do, and why you’ll love it
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t may be barely 100 miles wide, but Northern Ireland has plenty to keep you entertained. If it’s a city break you’re after, Belfast and Londonderry tick all the boxes, with great restaurants, street art and pubs that are hopping ’til the wee hours. But if you want to make the most of the great outdoors, there’s incredible scenery around every corner, from well-known sights like the Giant’s Causeway to spots made famous by Game of Thrones. In fact, drive in any direction in Northern Ireland and you’ll soon stumble upon a location used as a backdrop in the TV series, from Cushendun Caves to Dunluce Castle. Away from the tourist hotspots, there are places you’re likely to get all to yourself, from the wide stretches of white sand on the Antrim coast to the forests thick with ancient, moss-covered trees.
What to do
Capital Belfast is a cracker. Take in the Titanic Belfast museum where the ill-fated ocean liner was built and launched, and Ulster Museum for background on the Troubles; local guides tour murals on the Shankill and Falls roads. Come too for tremendous dining, a rollicking music scene (try Dirty Onion or Fibber Magee) plus some of the greatest pubs on earth: the Duke of York, Kelly’s Cellars, John Hewitt and the Garrick are the picks.
The world heritage Causeway Coast north is one of the world’s great drives — 130 epic miles into Game of Thrones territory. Stretch your legs in Cushendall village and the fern-filled Waterfall Walkway of Glenariff Forest Park. Backed by bulging coast and lush glens, Ballycastle is the gateway to bird reserve Rathlin Island.
Now for the province’s big-hitters. Wobble across Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge for terrified selfies. Thronies should cut inland for the Dark Hedges, aka the Kingsroad, near Stranocum. Everyone else is off to the Giant’s Causeway, centrepiece of the world heritage region. A tip: hike in from Dunsverick Castle; the five-mile cliff path is more exhilarating than the bus from the Giant’s Causeway visitor centre, plus there’s a free shuttle back. Team the Causeway with ruined Dunluce Castle.
Stop for ice creams — and perhaps a surf lesson — at Portstewart resort before picking up the pace in walled Londonderry, as rollicking as the Derry Girls TV series (there’s a tour, obviously) and known for its sectarian murals. On your way back, stop at the Crosskeys Inn in Toome, one of Ireland’s great historic music pubs.
Where to stay
Whether in a smart city stay or chirpy B&B, family manor or creaky coaching inn, you can expect terrific hospitality. That and a no-nonsense Ulster Fry offered at breakfast (which also means lunch is taken care of).
Stay central in Belfast — its hotels are terrific value compared to other UK cities. The Merchant Hotel in the Cathedral Quarter is the historic one. The cool one is the Bullitt. Along the Causeway Coast you’ll be in guesthouses or B&Bs. Try Carnlough’s Londonderry Arms Hotel coaching inn, which hasn’t changed much since Sir Winston Churchill stayed. Cushendall or Ballycastle are convenient for exploration.
Options to base yourself in for the Giant’s Causeway area are whiskey town Bushmills (try the Bushmills Inn), a beachy B&B at Portstewart (At The Beach is a five-star number beside the sands) or rural seclusion at Coleraine. Outside Londonderry, Beech Hill Country House was good enough for the Clintons, so you’ll likely be satisfied there too.
Finally, two options before your return to Belfast: Ardtara Country House is one of the province’s premier-league stays; and Laurel Villa Townhouse, in Magherafelt, is akin to staying in the home of arty good friends — former guests include poet Seamus Heaney and author Roddy Doyle.
• Best hotels in Northern Ireland
Don’t miss
North from Belfast near Carrickfergus, The Gobbins path was hacked from sea cliffs for Edwardian tourists — two miles teetering above the sea to Islandmagee. The nine glens of Antrim, which sweep from the inland plateau to the coast, offer scenic drives on backroads; no sights per se but are tremendous for the fun of exploration. You’ll get the gist on a loop inland from Cushendall to Cushenden.
For a fabulous hike, trek the Causeway Coast from Ballycastle to Portrush over two or three days. It ticks off the sights and throws in stellar coastal scenery most visitors miss. Walking or driving, detour inland to Bushmills, where they’ve been distilling whiskey since 1608. The world’s oldest distillery, Bushmills, runs popular tours.
Downhill Beach is your friend when Portstewart is busy in high summer; any crowd dissipates along its seven miles of sand. The classic Insta shot is from Mussenden Temple.
Near Omagh, the Ulster American Folk Park tells the story of emigration through costumed actors in Old and New World villages. All good fun. Make a day of it on a driving tour through the Sperrins Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Sixth-century monks established a monastery on Devenish Island in Lough Erne, Co Fermanagh, partly to escape the Vikings, mostly for the reasons you go — to get away from it all. Visit the monastery by water taxi from Enniskillen (historic, friendly, hugely underrated). The lakes either side — almost inland seas, dotted with wooded islands, backed by a rumble of mountains — are prime turf for boaters and fly-fishermen.
Gorgeous scenery laps against the granite humps of the Mourne Mountains south of Belfast. Slieve Donard, the highest peak in Northern Ireland at 850m (2,790ft), is worth the five-hour return trip for the tremendous panorama from its summit. Too hairy-chested? Tollymore Forest Park near Newcastle is a sylvan fairy world of streams and mossy woods.
In Hillsborough, then main draw has long been Northern Ireland’s official royal residence, Hillsborough Castle. But while the swish state rooms and gardens are well worth a visit, the surrounding neighbourhood really shines. The main street is charming, with carriage houses, cosy little pubs and hanging baskets aplenty. Call into bakery Kin & Folk for homemade focaccia sandwiches or have lunch by the fire in the Parson’s Nose, before walking through Hillsborough Forest for a stroll around the lake. It’s only a 20-minute drive from Belfast, so it’s an easy addition to a city break.
Best time to visit
June to September has the most stable weather. July to August is peak season, so expect crowds around major sights. April to July is peak puffin time on Rathlin Island. For walking, the Antrim glens are gorgeous in early October.
FAQs
Do I need a passport to go to Northern Ireland from Britain?
Officially you’re still in the UK, so no passport is required to enter. In practice, immigration officers check the ID of everyone who arrives by air and often require proof of nationality. Play it safe: bring your passport.
Where is the most beautiful place to visit in Northern Ireland?
Northern Ireland plays its royal flush on the coast trail west of Dunseverick Castle. It’s one of Europe’s unsung great walks, five exhilarating miles of mercurial seascapes, briny air and fulmars chittering on wildflower cliffs that gets better the further you go towards Hamilton’s Seat. There’s also a nice basalt causeway at the end. Something to do with a giant.
How many days should you allow to see Belfast?
If all you want to do is take photos, five nights is enough to speed through highlights: two in Belfast then a three-day blast around the Causeway Coast. To take in walks, a few interesting backroads, perhaps the occasional Guinness on a sunny harbour, I’d allow at least a week. Factor in Lough Erne and the Morne Mountains and you’re looking at ten never-less-than-enthralling days.
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